The formula for better fitting pants?
Back to making pants. I found with the last pair the waistband was quite high. To remedy I chopped off an inch of the front and back pattern pieces on this latest pair.
Now however, there is this huge plumber butt sized gaposis. I have traveled the high seas of the internet in search of a solution.
I’m not even sure what the body issue is? I do not have a swayback, that I know.
Anyone have an idea? Maddening.
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For my recent jeans I cut the waistband on the crosswise grain & (I forget the name of this technique) I essentially torqued the fabric with an iron by ironing it into a curve. That reduces bulk & the two waistbands I’ve done like that seem to hug fairly well- however one cotton/wool/rayon/lycra blend doesn’t hug as well as the cotton/lycra blend.
I’ve never come up against so many variables when sewing pants. When cutting on a particular grain or fabric choice can make a big difference. I had not thought of the crosswise grain. I’m taking notes and just going to hit each one. I knew I would get some good comments on this.
I recently read a post from Sew Well about an online Pants Sewing course by Sandra Betzina – which focusses a lot on pattern manipulation…might be another resource? See: http://sewwell.wordpress.com/2012/11/18/sundays-with-sandra-tummy-and-waist-alterations/
Awesome! A friend of mine also showed me a tailoring technique used on men’s pants. It looks promising but I’m puzzled as to why this isn’t used in women’s books. I’ll post it, especially if it works!
Maybe you should be making the pant shorter in the crotch, not from the top, because if you lop off the top, you are removing the most narrow portion, leaving that gaping area for the “coin slot” to show! You would probably find that you would get droopy pants from that alteration, too–because too much fabric is in the seat.
Either lop from the top and pull in at the back midline seam, or alter from the crotch seam. What do you think?
Arrrrgh!!!! Well, you’re right about the coin slot. Back to the drawing board. There is a new definition of insanity by the DSM2 and it’s called Learning how to sew pants that fit.
I had that happen with my jeans and just pinched out the excess in two little darts that I hid behind the belt carriers. Might want to have a look at Maria Denmark’s pants sewalong-she’s very good with answering queries and troubleshooting.. Best of luck.
Awesome, I’ve just signed up for her sewalong. Thanks!
without seeing a bit tricky and presumably adjusting the darts is not the issue. Maybe to lower the waistband at the front and not so much at the back. Think best to add the waistband by basting it on first and then trimming the excess before turning under – but if you have cut the excess already Mmmm. I am making swing pants just now and I’m encountering all sorts of issues so your formula is not far off!! Feeling your pain!
Actually, I have not cut the excess yet. I did on a muslin. But, that is a good idea to maybe keep the back as is and contour more off in the front waist area.
Darts are fine.
I just wasn’t up to putting photos up. But, yes that would have been helpful.
I’ll be checking in on your progress! Making pants seems to be a benchmark of sorts for me.
I think once you have perfected the fitting issues you will have basic block pattern of sorts, to use in future so worth making the effort. Its that thought that is stopping me from throwing in the towel!