Body Mapping for better fit

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Here I am!

I’ve read about body mapping in the fitting book of Palmer and Alto’s Fit for Real People.  I’ve dismissed it as stupid and a waste of time. Sort of like the whole fitting shell thing.  Well.  Well.  I had Marni at our last meeting do me an outline of the old body.  Lo and behold it isn’t a waste of time!   Highly recommend this to not only see what you body might look like in a crime scene but to get a completely different look at your lovely body. You can’t see the  grid lines on this photo but they are quite helpful in getting a great look at your body and type.

Here is what I learned.

  1. My  right side is higher than the left.
  2. My left shoulder is sloping but not the right.
  3. I am  short waisted
  4. I have almost no visible waist.  
  5. I have a long crotch length
  6. My knees are average (Who knew!)
  7. I have a small frame and small bust. (I knew that!)
  8. I am either an hourglass or a rectangle.  My waist has little indentation but then my hips and shoulders are about the same width and my waist is 10″ less than my hips.  Unclear but I don’t think it really matters much.  Hourglass certainly has a better ring to it.  

My measurements are as follows

  1. Height 5’7
  2. My high bust is 31 (I’ve been measuring wrong, I thought it was 32 1/2)
  3. Bust 34
  4. Rib cage area 28 1/2
  5. Waist is 27
  6. Hips 37
  7. I’ve been sewing with a 12/14.  I refused to think my bodice size to be an 8. 

There are a lot more measurements to do if you decide to do a body map.  I chose the ones that I thought would be most helpful. I really care a less what my ankle or wrist measurements are.    

Fit for Real People goes into detail on how to do a body map and for a seamstress who is constantly looking for ways not to do something I thought this was really worth the time.  Goes without being said that you need a partner.  

Fitting Workshop!

At our sewing meetup we are doing a fitting shell workshop.  I have avoided doing this like the plague.  2013  I’m doing it and I’m bringing all my sewing friends kicking and screaming with me.  For our January meetup some came with fitting shells and gingham in hand and got to work.  

Well, not really.  This was as far as I got. And, Jamie…well, she got the paper out of the envelope and cut out.  The pattern that is, not the actual gingham   Hmmm.  Bad girls.  Kim and Becca were literally wrapped up in their Costume-Con project and didn’t get the fitting shell even out of the packet.    

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Not going to cut itself out.

Well, I was busy.  I chatted with the ladies.  We haven’t seen each in other in a month!  Met new members (Yea!) Helped a new sewer with her machine, tried to anyway.  Talked some more, snacked.  Looked at sewing books, watched a fitting video, took crappy photos.  Gabbed and snacked more.  Fiddle with material.  Drooled over some vintage linens Tiffany was using to make aprons with.  Went in search of my sushi.   Oh, but we did make a few resolutions.

  1. Make a gown for the Denver Film Society’s Oscar bash for 2014
  2. Go to the Edith Head show in March
  3. Go to the bar and do a Suds and Sew.  Can’t wait for that one!
  4. Volunteer for Costume-Con in May
  5. Go to Sewing Expo in February
  6. Go to Sewing Summit in October
  7. Sew more from independent pattern makers.
  8. Do more charitable creating for those in need.
  9. Sew 
  10. Do costume shop tours of local theater/opera companies.
  11. And, whatever else comes down the pike.

Current new member Tish of HISS Studio (so awesome that she came) has opened a sewing studio and offers a variety of classes for seamstresses of all levels.

You can see what she has to offer here and here.  If you are in the Denver area check out our latest and greatest addition to the Sewing Community!

I look forward to collaborating with Tish and HISS Studio more in the future.  Oh, and it was Miss Tish who came up with the idea of Sew and Suds.  Stay tuned for that one. 

You can check out our Facebook page or Flickr page to see that some actually did get quite a lot done.  Weekend is here so I’d best get busy.  

Tips for better fitting from sewing patterns – Small Bust Adjustment

I get requests on how to get better fit from patterns.  One thing I continually complain about is the Small Bust Adjustment or SBA.  Much is written for you gloriously fuller girls but in some fitting books the SBA is completely omitted.  Or as one fitting book suggested ” wear a padded bra”.

There is a great tutorial here for a SBA but if you are still having problems you may want to look at some of my tips here.  For an SBA what is being done to the pattern is reducing fabric over the bust and this is done by slashing through the dart (or darts) and essentially lapping over to reduce width.

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